In order to ensure compliance with the criteria of the GOTS for chemical inputs, Ecocert counterchecks the material safety data sheet (MSDS) or safety data sheet (SDS) and thoroughly assesses other relevant information provided by each chemical supplier. Ecocert further reserves the right to assign analyses to confirm relevant properties by independent laboratories.
The following requirements have to be met for receiving GOTS-approval (excerpt from the standard GOTS version 5.0):
The MSDS/ SDS of a chemical input (substance or preparation) has to be prepared according to one of the following norms / directives:
- ANSI Z400.1-2004
- ISO 11014-1
- EC 1907/2006 (Reach)
- EC 2001/58
- GHS (Global Harmonised System)
- JIS Z 253:2012
Restricted and banned substances in all production stages:
- Permanently bound halogen contributing to the AOX-value of the waste water
- Heavy metals
- Aromatic and halogenated solvents
- (Chloro-) Phenols and Benzenes
- Genetically modified organisms (GMO's) and their derivates (including enzymes derived from genetically modified micro-organisms)
- APEO; EDTA, DTPA and similar persistent complexing agents; LAS, α-MES
- Certain Quaternary ammonium compounds
- Formaldehyde and other short-chain aldehydes
- PAH, Phthalates, Bisphenol A and other substances with endocrine disrupting potential.
- PFCs (e.g. PFOA, PFOS, FTOH, C8, C6, C4)
- Organotin compounds
- Functional nanoparticles (size < 100 nm)
Further GOTS restricts any substances, that are prohibited with a recognized internationally or a nationally valid legal character. Hence all substances of very high concern (SVHC) with CMR (carcinogenic, mutagenic, toxic to reproduction) or PBT (persistent, bioaccumulative, toxic) properties are forbidden. Confirmed SVHC can be found at:
http://echa.europa.eu/chem_data/authorisation_process/candidate_list_table_en.asp
The GOTS sets up general criteria which have to be met by all chemical products. Further the standard applies individual restrictions depending upon the particular processing step for which a product is designated, securing that for every application only those products are approved, which aims at the same time high quality of the textile product as well as to minimize negative impact for the workers, the environment the consumers during processing and use.
In order to simplify those special restrictions Ecocert uses footnotes to guide through the requirements which have to be met during the different processing steps of the production of GOTS-textiles.
For a complete overview of the restrictions and requirements, please check the following chapters of the Standard (GOTS version 5.0) and the Manual for implementation:
General requirements: Chapter 2.3.1 - 2.3.3
Special requirements: Chapter 2.4.2-2.4.8, 2.4.10
Technical quality parameters and residue limit values: Chapter 2.4.14 and 15